A deeply-rendered self-portrait of a life-long surfer by the acclaimed New Yorker journalist Barbarian Days is William Finnegan’s memoir of an obsession, of a complex enchantment. Surfing looks
“Reading this guy on the subject of waves and water is like reading Hemingway on bullfighting; William Burroughs on controlled substances; Updike on adultery. . . . a coming-of-age story, seen through
Barbarian Days is William Finnegan’s memoir of an obsession, a complex enchantment. Surfing only looks like a sport. To initiates, it is something else entirely: a beautiful addiction, a demanding cou
A founder of the Surfers Healing foundation recounts how the author left a successful medical practice to pursue a lasting surfing odyssey that grew to include his wife and their nine children includi
Surfing Life is a study of surfing and social change that also provides insights into other experience-based contemporary subcultures and the nature of the self and social formations in contemporary s
From the best freestyle surfer in the world, an inspiring and moving memoir about his ascendance to the top of the surfing world while struggling for most of his young life with undiagnosed Asperger’s
From the best freestyle surfer in the world, an inspiring and moving memoir about his ascendance to the top of the surfing world while struggling for most of his young life with undiagnosed Asperger’s
The inspirational story of one woman learning to surf and creating a new life in gritty, eccentric Rockaway BeachUnmoored by a failed marriage and disconnected from her high-octane life in the city, D
From the bestselling author of Assholes: A Theory, a book that--in the tradition of Shopclass as Soulcraft, Barbarian Days and Zen and the Art of Motorcycle Maintenance--uses the experience and the et
Do a little armchair time-travel, rub elbows with a four-dimensional intelligent life form, or stretch your mind to the furthest corner of an uncharted universe. With this astonishing guidebook, Surfi
The best and newest big-wave surfing stories from the sport’s insiders?More than a decade ago, John Long published his now classic The Big Drop, an unprecedented look at the larger-than-life frontier
As the last rays of the industrial age finally give way to the full force of the information age, a giant leap in the complexity and pace of daily life takes place despite the change-fatigue that has
As the last rays of the industrial age finally give way to the full force of the information age, a giant leap in the complexity and pace of daily life takes place despite the change-fatigue that has
