Nagaland - Land of the Headhunters: The Edge of India

Arihantt, a young Indian Civil Servant was sent to the dog eaters.

He was welcomed by the Ultras, Insurgents, Seditionists, Extortionists, Terrorists, NSCN (IM), NSCN (K) and all other daring elements one can think on earth.

Hello Nagaland, the edge of India!

Yes, that was from Gandhinagar in Gujarat, Arihantt was transferred to Kohima, the capital of Nagaland, a State in northeast India. It was a cross-country screwing, from West to East over two thousand miles.

It is landlocked, remote, mountainous and inhabited by numerous tribes called Naga. They are natural headhunters and treacherous in enmity, on the Eastern Himalayas and bordering Myanmar. These tribes lived on isolated hilltops for thousands of years. So detached from each other they lived that they developed their independent dialects, weaving patterns, dress codes, and cuisines, styles of house-building, weaponry and village defence systems.

One Naga tribe did not understand the other. Enmity brewed and served cold - cost of any dispute was nothing less than one's head!

Nobody knew about Nagaland before the East India Company landed there in 1830. The British fought many battles mainly against the Angami tribe in Khonoma village, lost many lives and finally were successful to bring Nagaland under some control of the company and later, under the King or the Queen of England. The British again fought here the World War II against the Japanese and the Indian National Army. This time to save Kohima and for that matter themselves in India.

Arihantt's posting as the top Auditor of the State met with remoteness, unfamiliarity, reservations, security challenges, and himself ending up eating grasshoppers and dogs. He became a Naga, more than a Naga Insurgent - a spade for a spade! His ease with the unorthodox food habits of the local tribes though made himself a bit surprised, it made the West-East transition smooth, yet not event-free at all.

Naga insurgents are fantasized as heroes in the society. Along with being busy infighting and extortion activities, they have mastered ambushing Central Civil Servants and Military Forces of Government of India for an independent Nagalim that is all Naga-inhabited areas of India. They did not like the Auditor of the State and challenged the very existence of his office in Nagaland. They had their own Government (parallel), Army General and a Military Budget published in Morung Express - this is called guts of non-state actors! Bravo!

Arihantt lived in a bungalow built on that battlefield of WW II, the Aradura Spur - Imphal-Kohima Road - Road of Bones of Fergal Keane. Arihantt's Lady Wife and their two young children also joined him. The cultural shocks for the children in the schools and the security threats for all occupied most of the initial months.

To avoid another fatal finishes, bodyguards, house guards and armed escort vehicles were provided to cover all his and his family's movements.

Over the years, contrary to the stereotype views about the Nagas and except for a few close calls from the insurgents, Arihantt found the local tribes and the State machinery extremely cordial, helpful and trustworthy. Ministers, local civil servants are found to be sincere, elegant and good hosts and singers. Bodyguards, drivers, and housekeepers were all local Nagas. The children found them both as playmates and protectors.

Nagaland is free from thieves and dacoits, gender equality and respect for women is high. The English language and Christianity have made most of the Nagas abandoning their primitive lives and accept modernity.

Though a dry State, the best quality liquor is available, anyhow. Living was comfortable though not without the challenges of the remoteness, water supply and non-availability of pure milk.

It is a land no one should miss; the real edge every Indian can be proud o